English Original
During my adolescent years I spent succulent summers at Bethany Beach, Delaware, body surfing, riding waves of hormones, pretending to be the man I wanted to become. My dad ruled the small kingdom of Beachcombers Flat, the nest and crash pad for the family. One unbroken rule of beach life was that Dad did the cooking, the kids did the cleaning up and the dishes, and Mother rested.
My father’s style of cooking can be best described as intuitive, inventive, passionate and chaotic. When he gathered beach plums for the yearly batch of jam, day after day large pots of the warlock’s brew simmered on the stove, and the kitchen looked like the playpen of a child who had spilled purple paint.
Whenever guests were expected, Dad would begin early in the morning to make Chicken Cacciatore. The largest skillets and pots came out. Mountains of chicken were cut up and browned in olive oil with as much garlic as was available in southern Delaware. Whole fields of tomatoes, onions, celery, peppers and mushrooms disappeared into the caldron, in no particular order or proportion. Salt, pepper, basil and varieties of spices, unknown to the Frugal Gourmet were added - to taste. Always to taste. Every hour or so, the concoction was tasted and discerning comment was gathered from any family member or visiting friend who happened by.
As the sun lost its intensity, the sea grew calm and emerald -- the dinner hour arrived. What I remember most was the appetite we brought to the table, the rich simmered symphony of the Cacciatore, the profusion of talk, the plenty-for-all, sweet chaos of the feast around the kitchen table -- the wine and wafer of food prepared with wild love.
Chicken Cacciatore
Makes 10 to 12 servings
Ingredients:
- 2 (3-1/2-pound) chickens
- Olive oil, as needed
- 4 pounds ripe tomatoes, chopped along with their juices
- 3 ounces tomato paste
- 6 carrots
- 1 pound mushrooms
- 3 medium red onions
- 4 stalks celery
- 1 green bell pepper
- 1 orange bell pepper
- 4 cloves (or more, to taste) garlic, minced
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Chicken broth, as needed
- 1/2 cup minced fresh basil
- Warm homemade corn bread, for serving
Instructions:
1. Cut up chickens into serving pieces; discard skin and wing tips. Pour olive oil into a large frying pan. Brown the chicken in batches, adding more olive oil as necessary. Transfer the pieces as you brown them into a large pot. To the pot add tomatoes and tomato paste.
2. Prepare vegetables as follows: slice carrots and mushrooms, chop onions, celery, green and orange bell peppers. Add the vegetables to the pot with the chicken and tomatoes along with minced garlic, salt and pepper. Stir, and if the liquid does not cover the ingredients, add some chicken broth as needed. Cover, and simmer over very low heat while you spend a lazy afternoon doing nothing in particular, or until the chicken is tender and begins to fall off the bones.
3. To serve, remove the chicken bones from the pot. Stir in the minced fresh basil. Serve in bowls, accompanied by warm homemade corn bread. Give thanks before eating.
中文翻译
在我青少年时期,我在特拉华州的贝瑟尼海滩度过了多汁的夏天,冲浪、经历荷尔蒙的浪潮,假装成为我想成为的男人。我的父亲统治着"海滩拾荒者公寓"这个小王国,那是我们家的巢穴和落脚点。海滩生活有一条不变的规则:父亲负责做饭,孩子们负责打扫和洗碗,而母亲则休息。
我父亲的烹饪风格可以最好地描述为凭直觉的、有创造力的、充满激情且混乱的。当他为每年的一批果酱采集海滩李子时,日复一日,大锅的巫师大杂烩在炉子上炖煮,厨房看起来就像一个打翻了紫色颜料的小孩的游乐场。
每当有客人要来时,父亲就会一大清早开始制作猎人式炖鸡。最大的煎锅和锅子都拿出来了。堆积如山的鸡肉被切块,用橄榄油和特拉华州南部能找到的所有大蒜一起煎成褐色。整片田地的西红柿、洋葱、芹菜、辣椒和蘑菇消失在大锅里,没有特定的顺序或比例。盐、胡椒、罗勒和各种连"节俭美食家"都不知道的香料被加了进去——根据口味。总是根据口味。大约每隔一小时,就会品尝一下这锅大杂烩,并从任何碰巧在场的家庭成员或来访朋友那里收集有见地的评论。
当太阳失去它的强度,大海变得平静而翠绿时——晚餐时间到了。我记得最清楚的是我们带到餐桌上的胃口,是猎人式炖鸡那浓郁炖煮的交响乐,是席间丰富的谈话,是厨房餐桌周围那场人人有份、甜蜜混乱的盛宴——那是用狂野的爱准备的食物与美酒。
猎人式炖鸡
可供10-12人食用
食材:
- 2只(每只约3.5磅)鸡
- 橄榄油,适量
- 4磅熟西红柿,切碎并保留汁液
- 3盎司番茄酱
- 6根胡萝卜
- 1磅蘑菇
- 3个中等大小的红洋葱
- 4根芹菜
- 1个青椒
- 1个橙色彩椒
- 4瓣(或更多,根据口味)大蒜,切碎
- 盐和胡椒粉,适量
- 鸡汤,适量
- 1/2杯切碎的新鲜罗勒
- 温热的自制玉米面包,用于搭配
步骤:
1. 将鸡切成食用块;去掉鸡皮和翅尖。将橄榄油倒入一个大煎锅中。分批将鸡肉煎至褐色,必要时添加更多橄榄油。将煎好的鸡块转移到一个大锅中。向锅中加入西红柿和番茄酱。
2. 准备蔬菜如下:将胡萝卜和蘑菇切片,将洋葱、芹菜、青椒和橙色彩椒切碎。将蔬菜与切碎的大蒜、盐和胡椒粉一起加入装有鸡肉和西红柿的锅中。搅拌,如果液体没有覆盖食材,根据需要加入一些鸡汤。盖上盖子,用非常小的火慢炖,同时你度过一个慵懒的下午,什么特别的事也不做,或者直到鸡肉变嫩、开始从骨头上脱落。
3. 上菜前,从锅中取出鸡骨。拌入切碎的新鲜罗勒。盛入碗中,搭配温热的自制玉米面包。进食前请心怀感恩。